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Bellettini, now president and CEO of Gucci, was succeeded at Yves Saint Laurent by Cédric Charbit in early 2025. Charbit, like Bellettini, is a star of Kering’s C-suite, having surfed that same wave of luxury growth alongside Demna as CEO of Balenciaga from 2016. Before then, he was executive vice president in charge of product, retail merchandising and communication at Yves Saint Laurent, where he overlapped with Vaccarello for the first few months after the designer’s arrival.
This May, speaking to the Financial Times, Charbit observed of luxury’s stuttered boom: “The industry’s growth has been extraordinary but not sustainable.” Despite this, under Group CEO Luca de Meo, Kering is applying intense pressure to itself in order to reassert an upward trend in performance and value: in April, de Meo stated that by 2030, YSL is targeting a more than doubling of its menswear sales, a tripling of its jewelry sales, a doubling of its VIC sales and a minimum of €500 million of sales in its entry-price categories. Meeting these targets will now fall in part to whoever is appointed Vaccarello’s successor.
Vaccarello, meanwhile, has already hinted that his any moves might take him beyond fashion. While speaking with Pamela Golbin for the entertainment title The Wrap in 2024, he was asked what could follow his time at Yves Saint Laurent. He replied: “It’s complicated because just being here is already a dream. Saint Laurent, for me, is the most beautiful house, the Holy Grail of houses. What can top that? The only thing you can do is to start something completely different… We need to aspire to new dreams that I don’t necessarily have yet.”
Now aged 46, Vaccarello has plenty of time to formulate those dreams — and to savor his achievements during his decade-long service as custodian of Parisian fashion’s “Holy Grail”.
