In the 20 years since its founding COS has become a fashion force to be reckoned with. Its rise has accelerated over the last few years during fashion’s fascination with quiet luxury, which the London-based Swedish company long ago mastered, offering the look and feel of that kind of minimalism (note the brand’s use of double-faced wools, cashmeres, and leathers) without maximalist prices
After a show in Seoul, creative director Karin Gustafsson returned to New York with a fall 2026 collection described in the notes as “a dialogue of corporate modernism and 1920s decadence.” It’s a dichotomy that was introduced within the first three looks, which were nearly identical monochrome his and hers outfits, oversized tailored coats with sweaters tied at the waist, and a double-faced wool dress that was flapperish in the placement of the low waistline but had the added drama of a hi-lo hem.
Adding atmosphere to the theme, the show was presented in the Financial District, site of the 1929 stock market crash and Occupy Wall Street. Cos was the subject of a smaller protest when PETA interrupted the goings-on to forcefully express concern about the treatment of sheep in the making of wool.
The thing about Cos overall, including this collection, is that it is pretty much imperturbable, which is perhaps an expression of the brand’s Swedish heritage. These are tasteful (detractors might say bland) not trend-chasing collections. One of the upsides of this is that many people can project themselves into the clothes, which can easily be personalized with accessories.
Gustafsson and team presented a collection that represented many women or many moods of women. There was the power suit and the city slick leather coat; car wash skirts and slip dresses; floral cutout embroidery and a flowy royal purple evening dress worn with loafers, a perfect touch. The guys were slightly edgier (note the hoodies): what stood out in this category were the softest looks, like a fuzzy marled oatmeal sweater and an ensemble of wide-collared shirt, soft blazer, and draped pants in a medley of gentle earth tones. The brand really leaned into the same color suit and shirt combo.
There’s something special about seeing clothes that are seasonally appropriate; the shortergap between anticipation and attainability stokes desire. Watching the models stride by had one thinking about pumpkin spice, sweater weather, and autumn in New York.
